![]() I’m pretty used to projects where similar skills are used but I still found the workshop video helpful.īasically you just want to get it evenly on the wall and make sure there are no areas too thick or thin. Then, I used a metal trowel I found on Amazon to take some plaster and finally get it on the wall. I used a scoop to scoop out some of my product onto my hawk to “prime” it, aka spread a little on my metal tray so when I scooped more plaster on, it would hold better. Any thicker or thinner and again.there is possible delamination or cracking in your future. Whoa!įor the Loma plaster, American Clay recommends applying it as thin as one credit card. Like, they can be mixed up to a month prior. It should sit for at least an hour before applying but apparently the longer it sits, the better it is. Ways you can mess this up: If you make it too thick (which would take a lot more effort to apply), or thin (it could just slide down the wall). The plaster should be a soft-serve ice cream consistency and we ended up using about 2 gallons of water for the one bag to achieve this. ![]() To mix the plaster we used a large 5 gal bucket and a mixer attachment on our drill, adding a little plaster and water at a time to mix evenly. One 50 lb bag of Loma should cover about 180 sq ft per coat. It was recommended that I start with Loma in Snow Canyon for my base since I wanted a natural/bone white as the finished color for our project and also desired a matte appearance. Once my primer fully dried I could start my base coat. I used a 6 inch smooth/short nap roller to roll it on as evenly as possible and then it was time for the real show to begin-plaster! You should mix it again occasionally as you work since the sand can settle to the bottom. I mixed 1lb of the sand additive into 1 gallon of my primer and mixed it well with a paint stirrer. The sand additive gives a slightly rough texture to give your plaster something to grip on to, and again, not just crack and fall off the wall. I purchased an American Clay Primer sand additive and mixed it into one of their approved primers, Kilz. I used Rx35 to seal everything and finally we were ready to prime. If you mess this step up like I did and use an all purpose pre-mixed (light weight) joint compound you need to add an additional step and use a sealing primer. Setting joint compound, aka hot mud, is recommended. I used a metal scraper to get mine as even as possible and within their 1/16 of an inch requirement.Īny dust must be vacuumed or wiped clean with a cloth. The company had very specific guidelines for the levels of joint compound that are acceptable. The joint compound should be scraped wherever it is uneven and not sanded. Below is my quick guide to plastering and what I personally learned along the way! When I called to order, still having no idea how I was going to do it, the President of the company spent 20 minutes on the phone with me very patiently walking through everything I would need and even tips on exactly how to do it.Ī couple of weeks later when I realized in a panic we wouldn’t be able to plaster straight onto the wood frame we had created for our bookcase, he again walked me through everything in a series of emails.Īmerican Clay has so many great resources on their website including workshop videos and PDF guides for just about everything you can imagine to do with plaster. ![]() I’m so glad we found American Clay (not sponsored, just love them) to supply our plaster. As soon as we decided on this plaster project and I started researching how to actually do it I knew I would need to create a basic how-to guide because for some reason all the steps and specific requirements really intimidated me.
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